Saturday, July 27, 2013

Queen of the Castle

Mary - Queen of the Castle
Queen for a day: Mary on top of Castle Mountain, views east down the Bow Valley
Castle Mountain from just off the TCH
Castle Mountain is, perhaps, one of the most iconic symbols in the Banff National Park pantheon of peaks. Driving down the Trans Canada Highway visitors see the south west slopes of the mountain rising, like a fortified medieval castle, almost straight up from the valley.

I know I've looked up at it many times and dreamed of standing on top, but always thinking its cliffs and crags were too much for me. Imagine my surprise to find that Castle Mountain has a much gentler aspect: the north / north-east side above Rockbound Lake affords scramblers an easier route to the summit. Well, perhaps "gentle" is not quite the right description - at 28 km round trip and an elevation gain of 1400 metres it is still a bit of an excursion, but Mike and I found it well worth the effort.

Tower Lake
Eisenhower Tower above Tower Lake
The first few km of the trip is a tad dull as the trail ascends through pine and spruce forest. Red squirrels and lovely wildflowers do hold one's attention, but when the first views of the Eisenhower Tower heave into view, sailing above the treetops, the vistas quickly open out. Soon enough we reached Tower Lake, ready to begin the final on-trail push to Rockbound Lake.

Castle was named in 1858 by Scottish geologist and surgeon James Hector. Using common Scottish good sense he named the mountain for what it looked like: a castle. But, with the stroke of a government pen, in 1946 the mountain was renamed Mount Eisenhower in honour of the US general (an soon-to-be President) Dwight D. Eisenhower. Happily, public pressure caused its original name to be restored in 1979, but the tower on the southeastern side keeps the Eisenhower moniker. 

The view from Rockbound Lake gave us a good idea as to what the 2nd half of the route had in store -- limestone galore! We went up and to the right around Rockbound and started a counter-clockwise scramble along the limestone terraces, gullies, and rocks high above the lake. What a day! We walked on ancient limestone laid down under the ocean 530 million years ago. In places the rock was so bright I had to shade my eyes to look at it -- kind of like sunning on a Pre-cambrian beach.
 
Looking South-east from above Rockbound Lake
Views from the early Cambrian limestone terraces
There was a bit of optimal route-finding to be done in getting to the summit - to say nothing of some scree-slope slogging. But, once there we had some stunning views. While lounging around the top two climbers showed up. They came up the cliffs on the highway side. We chatted for a few minutes and found we had someone in common -- the lead climber knew my sister Janice back in Revelstoke. What a small world.
Pre-Cambrian limestone above Rockbound Lake
Summit views: Rockbound Lake
Ptarmigan
White-tailed Ptarmigan
Coming down we retraced our steps, enjoying yet more views and the golden evening light. We even came across some White-tailed Ptarmigan. Normally Mike and I would not bother birds like this, whose existence in the alpine is already quite difficult. But, these two walked right out in front of us - less than a metre away. I didn't feel too guilty about snapping a few shots before moving along.

We got back to our car around 8:00 pm that evening, after spending about 11 hours on the mountain. I can say without a doubt that Castle Mountain left me feeling like a queen for at least one day. I give our time on Castle my royal seal of approval.

Map of our route:


View Castle Mountain via Rockbound Lake, Banff National Park in a larger map
 
More images on Flickr
 

Thursday, July 18, 2013

A different kind of Eiffel Tower

Pat on the trail to Eiffel Peak
Hike and scramble up Eiffel Peak: Eiffel on the left, Pinnacle Mountain in the middle, Temple Mountain on the left.
Mike and I did our first over 3000 metre peak of the summer: Eiffel Peak in the Lake Louise area, Banff National Park. It was a moderate scramble with a few moves that were made a bit more difficult because of the weather -- nothing like two cold runnels of water running from your hands into your armpits and out your pants to get you moving!

Eiffel Peak is 3084 metres high and affords outstanding views of the Valley of the Ten Peaks (the image that used to be on our - Canadian - $20.00 bill). Temple Mountain, Pinnacle Mountain, and the popular Sentinel Pass are also right in your face on this scramble.
The Valley of the Ten Peaks
Valley of the Ten Peaks
The day started out overcast and cool, and we did get some rain at about 1:00 (just in time for the hard stuff). The trail up was challenging, especially the interminable switch backs up out of Moraine Lake, but once on the mountain the views opened out beautifully. I stopped about once every 100 steps, let my heart rate settle for a moment, and gulped down some water.

Mary on Eiffel Peak - Eiffel Tower in the backgroundWe were a group of six, with Rick, a nurse from Washington state, joining us for the majority of the hike. Doug and Pat - our hosts from Canmore - along with their daughter Arianne and her boyfriend Gijs completed our group. This was a fit group and we moved along smartly. Sadly, I was the caboose on this hike, but I don't think I held the group up too much. And besides, someone has to be last.

This hike and scramble were exactly what I hoped our sojourn in the Canmore area would yield: great views, interesting terrain, some physical challenges, new wildflowers, wildlife sightings, and good times with friends. Here's hoping our Eiffel day will be the start of more to come.

More pictures from the day: Eiffel Peak Scramble.

Map of the route:

View Eiffel Peak via the south east slope in a larger map

Thursday, June 27, 2013

Are those nymphs I see in that pool?


East Charters River - Sooke Hills
The East Charters River, just before joining the West Charters.
Last weekend Mike and I, along with Jan, Judith, and Alan, got out for a 14km hike that took just about the entire day -- and what a well-seized day it was! After a convivial breakfast at our usual haunt (Cup of Joe), we headed west to the Sooke Hills. Our  destination: Charters River off Sooke River Road. We parked outside the hatchery and set off on a lollipop hike (a hike with a small circular route at one end and an out-and-back at the other -- see the map below for a "visual").

We headed up the Grassy Lake trail - a wide and well travelled route - for about 3.7 km. Then followed a small trail off the right of the main track. This took us down to to the West Charters River (some maps call it the North Charters), which was easily crossed at this time of the year. If you check out the OpenStreets map of the Sooke Hills Wilderness , you'll see this trail. It is called the Chimney Trail. From here we joined the Lower Rampart trail, but then carved our own way down the cliffs to the Charters River.

Although Mike had been here before, we were still a bit unsure about how to get down the cliffs, and indeed followed some false leads. But, we got it dialed in and had a fun scramble. The views on the Ramparts made the scrambling well worth it. We got to look back at some of our more familiar routes from a different vantage point. As well, this hike got us into one of southern Vancouver Island's most seldom-visited provincial parks: Sooke Mountain Provincial Park. While on the Ramparts and in the East Charters River bed we were actually in the Park. I've spent a lot of time in the Sooke Hills, but this was the first time I've ever been in Sooke Mountain Park.

On the Ramparts - Sooke Mountain Provincial Park
On the Ramparts
Perhaps the high point of the day was not time spent up on the Ramparts enjoying the view, or the stimulation of route finding, but the time spent down in the bed of the East Charters River (some maps call it the South Charters). This is not something that could be done at any other time of the year: winter and spring have the river flowing wildly, and in fall the chance of a quick cloudburst is too great. But, even with reduced flow I still had to watch my footing as I scrambled up and around huge boulders and clambered over and under logs and trees. All of us took our time on this section.

East Charters River - Maidenhair fern and Red Cedar
In the river bed
The atmosphere in the river bed was green and still, with the river gurgling and springing from pool to pool. We stopped at one of the kettle holes Mike noticed last time he was here. Since we were taking our time, we decided to spend some time taking off our clothes and jumping in. The water was decidedly brisk, but the day was warm and I, for one, was ready for a dip. It was such a "BC moment" to find a secluded spot, shuck off the shorts and splash about. Classic summertime in BC!

I won't offend anyone's eyes with photos of the five of us snorting and blowing like baby Belugas (our ages combine to give 287 years of experience here on Earth -- enough said), but rest assured, photos were indeed taken. Actually, the plants and flowers in bloom along side the Charters were the stars of the show. Delicate Maidenhair ferns turned cliff sides into lacy green grottoes, orange and yellow Sitka columbines nodded brightly at us from rocks and crevices, and many different types of Streambank alums peeked out from under trees and branches. Big Western Red cedar trees drooped huge roots into the water, keeping everything cool and shady. This part of the hike was less than a kilometre long, but it felt like walking back in time. The cliffs and boulders are made of basalt created more than 54 million years ago from underwater volcanoes. They tower above the river bed, but have a softness to their form -- kind of like huge pillows. This effect is caused by the quick cooling of lava being exposed to seawater.
Jan, Judith, Alan, and Mary walking down the Charters River
Jan, Judith, Alan, and Mary

A few cautions about this trip:
  • Firstly, DON'T attempt it if there has been a very recent rain, or if the river is running high;
  • Secondly, DON'T rush the river bed. It can be very easy to turn an ankle here, or worse;
  • Thirdly, if the ages in your party of five add up to more than 280, be VERY careful about who you let see your skinny-dip pictures!  




View The Ramparts and East Charters River in a larger map

More photos from this trip:
Mary and Mike's photos .
Alan's photos .

Friday, December 28, 2012

2012: Mountains and roofs ... oh my!


Another year gone and I think I can safely say that Mike and I are starting to feel our age! A few new creaks and groans – it is just like that old rouĂ© Leonard Cohen says “I ache in the places I used to play”. But, the wheels haven’t come off the Mike and Mary wagon yet. We still manage to get out into the hills for a hike and scramble among the peaks and glens, or hop on the bikes for a ride into the great outdoors.

Admittedly, this year was long on mountains and short on multi-day bike trips, but roads and bike trails are calling too. We are not sure yet what 2013 will bring, but I’m certain it will involve out-walking or out-riding the furthest city lights!


Alan, Mike, Mary, Jan:
Quadra Island

Some of our outdoor highlights for 2012 included a February stay on Quadra Island with friends Jan and Alan. Hiking, hot-tubbing, and beachcombing were the order of the day. Quadra, which is on the north east side of Vancouver Island, is usually busy with visitors in the summer, but in the winter we had the place to ourselves – as you can see from Alan’s picture of Mike and me on Wa Wa Kie Beach.

Mike, Roxanne, and Dave on Mt. Klitsa. The view
is southwest to Nahmint Mountain and the West Coast.
Mike and I enjoy our association with the Alpine Club of Canada. Mike especially has been out on lots of mountaineering adventures with Roxanne and Dave, friends from the ACC. Indeed, I think Mike knows more about the hills, peaks, lakes, and valleys of southern Vancouver Island’s Sooke Hills Wilderness area than anyone. Not content to rest on Sooke Wilderness laurels, Mike and company have been out in the mountains towards Port Alberni and the West Coast of Vancouver Island too.

I spent a good portion of the summer working with The Mountain Legacy Project (mountainlegacy.ca). MLP is a research project out of UVic that seeks to re-photograph 100+ year old survey photos of the mountain environment in Western Canada. We find the exact spot that the original surveyors stood and re-take the same image. Then, back in the lab, we overlay the new image on the old and look for signs of landscape change. The results are amazing – especially in showing dramatic evidence of ecosystem and climate change.
King Creek Ridge - Opal Range
Mary on Mt. Shatch: amazed
this spruce tree is alive at
9000 ft.
The work was as exciting and as fun as anything I have ever done. I spent July and August in Alberta on the Eastern Slopes of the Rocky Mountains travelling from Kananaskis Country (a bit south and west of Calgary) to the Willmore Wilderness west of Grande Cache. We also made a stop in BC’s Mt. Robson Provincial Park. I was part of an all-woman team of three and we always got our photo – even if it involved jumping out of hovering helicopters, epic bushwhacking in the dark of night, and scrambling along high-mountain ledges.

Mike on Richard and Melanie's
roof.
While I was gallivanting in the Rockies, Mike was working as a roofer back in Victoria. He helped our friends Richard and Melanie re-roof their home. It was difficult work, but did Mike ever look buff and tanned when I got back! I guess hoisting those huge sheets of plywood around was better than spending time in the gym.

Fritz in Janice's garden.
On the family front Mike’s Mom Marion and brother Dave became temporary residents of Victoria when they moved here for five months over the summer. As well as spending time with Mike, Marion also got to spend time with Eoin, her youngest son who also lives in town. I paid a flying visit to my sister Janice this summer – just time for lunch, a quick catch up on all things Revelstoke, and a chance to play with Fritz and Amy, Janice’s adorable pug-dogs. Janice’s home and garden are her pride and joy, and so they should be: her place is a classic mountain chalet – cosy and comfortable with stunning mountain views

Fall was glorious this year with late September and early October presenting some outstanding light. I made it to Banff for a photography workshop.

Lake Louise - across the lake
Lake Louise
Moraine Lake scenic
Moraine Lake - Larch Madness in Sept.
Smooth seas and warm sunsets
Oak Bay waterfront - October, 2012
  





John, Lisa, Mary, Mike: East Sooke Park


Back in Victoria Mike and I got out with friends Lisa and John for some local rambles. We walked in the Sooke Hills and hiked the Coastal Trail in East Sooke Park. 

The new year is here in a few days. Mike and I hope it holds health, happiness, and heaps of adventure for you and yours. Here’s to 2013 – and another chance for us to get it right!



All the best
Mary and Mike




Wednesday, June 27, 2012

Flowers and more

Small-flowered alumroot - closeupIt has been a LONG TIME since I've written or posted pictures here on The Back of Beyond. It's not that I've forsaken the great outdoors, but I did toy with the idea of simply leaving this site as an homage to our time in Bonnie Scotland. I went so far as to get another web address and start up a new site -- however, something about this one just kept calling me back. So, here I am, ready for another season of being amazed by the beauty and diversity in our environment.  Needless to say, I don't think I'll be disappointed!

This spring I've been focusing on wildflower photography -- yes, even MORE than usual. Although I have many shots of native wildflowers, I thought I would try to create special images that shine a light into the heart of the flower. Images that reveal the intricate structure and beauty of the plant: a kind of visual exploration of  "wildflowerness".

So far it has been a deeply rewarding process -- I spend hours tramping through the hills with friends, stopping to get photos where I can. This works very well because everyone on the hike is another set of eyes on the look out for wildflowers, lichen, moss, shrubs, trees, views -- you name it. But, this spring I've been looking on these rambles as flower reconazance missions. The true intensity happens when I head out by myself, spending hours schlepping tripod and camera into the back of beyond and focusing on a few species of flowers.

I've been very pleased with the result, and feel like I am coming to learn more and more about native wildflowers, especially those found in Southern Vancouver Island. I mean to create a special set of pages on this site with pictures of all I find separated by colour, family, size, and blooming time frame. But, for now, I thought I would highlight a few of the flowers that have really stirred my imagination.


Gold-star on Jocelyn Hill







Gold Star -- Crocidium multicaule
I caught this early spring arrival on April 15 up on On Jocelyn Hill, in Gowlland Tod Provincial Park. This lovely little annual is an infrequent visitor here in Victoria. It is common on the east coast of southern Vancouver Island and on the adjacent Gulf Islands. One of the few places to see it in Victoria is up at "Crocidium corner" on Jocelyn Hill.
View Crocidium Corner, Jocelyn Hill, Gowlland Tod Park. in a map.
Naked broomrape






Naked Broomrape -- Orobanche uniflora
What a strange common name! This parasitic herb doesn't photosynthesize. Instead, it sends out root-like growths, which attach to the roots of nearby sedum, saxifrage, sunflowers, or other plants. Once attached to a host, the broomrape robs the host of water and nutrients. In this case the O. uniflora plants are parasitizing sedum.

We came upon this plant in early May out on the McDonald "Bumps", on John Peak.
View a map of Mt. McDonald







Other wildflowers of note (thus far!)
Sitka columbine Fawn Lily about to open Chocolate Lily

Native wildflowers of Southern Vancouver Island slide show:

Monday, October 3, 2011

Collies, clouds, and climbing: A misty day on Ben Cruachan

Stob Diamh
The last day of August, 2011 wasn't the fairest day in the month, but we took what we were given and headed out from Glasgow to the north end of mighty Loch Awe. Our goal was a ridge-walk circuit of Coire Cruachan taking in two Munros: Stob Diamh (pronounced Stop Daff, 998m/3274ft, which means Stag Peak) and Ben Cruachan ( 1126m/3694 ft, Mountain of Mounds). We spent about 7 hours on a 16 km ramble along the impressive ridges and tops that make up this group -- and came in for a few surprises before the day was done.

Mountains northeast of Loch Awe
Cruachan group on the left (2007)
Ben Cruachan and Stob Diamh with their
heads in the clouds
Cruachan has been a mountain of interest for me since I first saw it back in 2007. Mike and I, along with friends Jan and Alan, were doing a fall bike ride through the Western Islands and Highlands. In comparison to the August weather of 2011, the fall of 2007 in Scotland was positively tropical, featuring several days IN A ROW of blue sky, sun, and temperatures of at least 18C. On one of those days the four of us were cycling around the west side of Loch Awe and I said "if the sun is still shining after lunch, I'm going in for a skinny dip -- I don't care who sees me!". The weather cooperated and at a grassy beach just south of the small town of Dalavich we all shucked off our clothes and jumped into the loch for a paddle. While cavorting sunny-side-up in the middle of the lake I looked north and caught my first glimpse of Ben Cruachan. It provided a fitting crown to sapphire-blue Loch Awe. That night, over a wee dram, I opined to Mike as how I'd sure like to make it to the top of that mountain.

If the 2011 weather had been better I'm sure we wouldn't have left Cruachan until the end of August -- not after getting such tantalizing views of its airy ridges and granite slabs from our early adventures on the likes of Ben Lui and Ben More. I was always waiting for the "perfect" Cruachan day -- the day when visibility would be so good we'd be able to see all the way from the island of Jura in the south to Ben Nevis and beyond in the north. Sadly, that day didn't come for us on this trip. We seemed to spend those "perfect" days on other mountains, with Cruachan always some place on the western horizon.

Aug 31, when we finally said "now or never", was a cloud-spattered day. I never got the much-hoped-for long vistas, and the shifting mists that boiled up over some of the northern ridges made for a few moments of challenging navigation. But, peek-a-boo glimpses of green and gold slopes and towering red granite walls were more than sufficient to focus our attention and keep us well entertained.

The view from the summit of Drochaid Ghlas
We started our tour right at loch-side and ascended up bracken and heather-covered slopes to the foot of a huge reservoir that covers the bottom of Coire Cruachan. We opted to head east around the reservoir, making for the bealach at Lairig Torran (Pass of Mounds). On our way up the grassy slopes above the water we were treated to the sights and sounds of a shepherd and his working dogs bringing sheep down from the heights. Calls of "come-bye", "away to me", and "that'll do" echoed through the hills, causing the dogs to wheel left and right around their charges. Eventually Mike and I had six Border Collies gambolling around our feet - obviously filled with delight at being out in the mountains, bossing sheep around.

After parting ways with the shepherd and his dogs our next delight was watching a herd of 10 red deer bound across the slopes below us. The scent and sound of the collies disturbed them and they must have thought it best to make tracks across the landscape to some place not so "doggy" . We continued up to Stob Garbh (Stob Garav - Rough Nose Peak), and then on to Stob Diamh. At this point the mist boiled in and we were locked in a silver fog with limited visibility. I was very nervous to continue, especially as I knew the steep, bouldery slopes of Drochaid Ghlas (Droch-itch Glass - Grey Bridge) with its narrow ridge trail around the sheer walls of Coire Caorach (Corra Coe-rach - Corrie of the Rowan Berries) would be next. But, the mist ebbed and we were drawn on, especially entranced by the deep red granite slabs overhanging Caorach.

There were some interesting sections on the route to work our way through. A large slab of granite on the eastern side of the Cruachan final summit ridge proved to be a bit slippery for us, so we had to manoeuvre below the outcrop -- some steep down-climbing, but quite do-able. And then we had to re-ascend the ridge. I hate giving up the high ground so there was a steady stream of rumbling from me for the entire detour! Especially annoying because on a dry day the slab would certainly have been grippy enough to hold us securely on a crossing.

The clouds surged up again as we made our way up the final pitch to the summit of Cruachan. I thought we might have to make do with no vistas at all, but, as we perched on the narrow top, the fog swirled out of sight and gave us keyhole views down into the reservoir and to Loch Awe in the distance. Unfortunately, the outlook north into Loch Etive and beyond was completely obscured -- we only had teasing glimpses of Etive from the summit of Drochaid Ghlas.

Our day on Cruachan ended with a steeply rolling descent to the bealach just below Meall Cuanail (Myowl Coo-anil, Hill of the Flocks). From here it was down directly to the west side of the reservoir. No more collies, deer, or other surprises of nature for us, but we did see two rather ill-prepared hill walkers decide to turn back. And we were happy they did -- Scottish mountains may be small in stature in comparison to our BC giants, but they are due every bit as much respect by those who venture out into them. Certainly, on this wind-pulled misty day Mike and I were more than pleased to be able to pay our respects, and finally put my "naked" ambition of standing on Ben Cruachan's summit to rest.
Weather moving in
Weather moving in


Map of our route:

View Ben Cruachan - Aug 31, 2011 in a larger map

More pictures from Ben Cruachan.

Friday, September 16, 2011

Riding the Glasgow Parks - a tour of some Dear Green Places, Aug 20, 2011

Views from Queen's Park
View over Glasgow from Queen's Park
*Just in case people have the impression that all Mike and I did in the Scottish outdoors was climb the odd hill I thought I'd write a story about one of our more interesting bike rides - a self-guided tour through some of the parks of Glasgow. I think it's fair to say that Glasgow has a love affair with green space. With over 90 parks in the city, Glasgow more than lives up to its "Dear Green Place" moniker. Our 70 km ride wasn't able to take in all of the parks, but those we did make a stop at all had at least one compelling feature. And those features ranged from 330 million year old tree stumps to daring art nouveau architecture to stunning gardens and views -- all for free.

The route plan was largely put together by Mike. His long walks through various Glasgow neighbourhoods gave him good insight into how to get from one park to the next without going through too much traffic. Also, Mike mastered the Clyde Tunnel -- the key to quickly getting from one side of Glasgow to the other. About 1km long, it crosses under the River Clyde quite a bit downstream from the bridges. Cyclists and pedestrians are separated from cars and have their own tunnels, but it can be a devil to find the entrance if you are newcomers to the Glasgow cycling scene.

Our route was circular, starting and ending in our Hillhead neighbourhood. Hillhead is very close to the University of Glasgow, so we travelled west on some of the bike routes through the area to our first stop: Victoria Park and its amazing Fossil Grove. The park was named for Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee and has some beautiful formal gardens and ponds. But, the thing that drew us to the park was a chance to see the fossilized remains of a forest that grew here 330 million years ago. At that time the terrain Glasgow sits on was located someplace close to the equator and huge forests of giant clubmoss ruled the land. The remains of this forest were found in 1887 when the park was being created. Today you can see the huge fossilized stumps in situ from a viewing platform in the park. Amazing to look at something that old in such detail.

From Victoria we headed for the Clyde Tunnel and nipped by Elder Park in Govan. We were not headed to a park, per se, but to get a view of Glasgow's latest triumph - the Riverside Museum. We were there on June 21st, opening day, and have visited a few times since. It holds the collection of the old Museum of Transportation, but in a new, purpose-built hall. I think the best view of the building itself is from across the Clyde at the Govan public wharf -- and that is where we pulled up.
330 million year old tree stumps
330 million year old tree

Next on the agenda was Bellahouston Park, but we had to cross the M8 motorway to get there. Mike researched the route, and, using the GoBike Glasgow bike map and a bit of navigational expertise got us across on a walkway.

I think Bellahouston is my favourite Glasgow park. It is big (159 acres) and has outstanding views from its highest point. But, the thing I love the most is the walled garden. It is like stepping into a calm oasis of colour and light. The walls cut both wind and sound -- it is a place where you could imagine spending a restful hour reading or sketching.

Glasgow's new Riverside Museum, and the Glenlee sailing ship
Riverside Museum and the Glenlee tall ship
Bellahouston is also famous for the Charles Rennie Macintosh masterpiece - House for an Art Lover. Designed by CRM in 1901, it was not built until the late 1980s. It is a wonderful mix of art nouveau, art deco, and Scottish baronial styles -- curves and lines abound. Somehow it works sitting next to the formalism of the walled garden.

I wish I could have been in Glasgow in 1938 to see the Empire Exhibition which was held in Bellahouston. The pictures from the event paint a scene of modernity and culture fitting into the park setting. 200 pavilions and palaces from all across the British Empire -- in hindsight it must have seemed like a happy summer holiday before the cold winter winds of the Second World War blew across Scotland and the rest of the world.

Mike in front of Pollock House
Mike in front of Pollock House
From Bellahouston we wound our way through a residential area and across the M77 to enter Pollock Country Park. This huge green space holds Pollock House -- a grand old pile of a place alongside the Whitecart Water, the Old Stable Courtyard, and the Burrell Collection. We visited the Burrell Collection earlier - an outstanding assemblage of art, archaeology, and architecture from Sir William Burrell, a rich and eclectic early 20th century collector. The Old Stable Courtyard was having a Highland Cattle show the day we rode through, so we got to see some Highland Coos close up. They are not as menacing as they look.

From Pollock Park it was on to the glass conservatories and city views of Queen's Park. We rode through some elegant Shawlands tenements and had a steep uphill pull to the entrance gates. This park has a reptile house and an aviary as well as a plant conservatory. But, the thing we were most interested in at Queen's Park was the view out over the city. We could see right back to our Glasgow University neighbourhood, and beyond to the Campsie Fells and Dumgoyne hill, above the city.

We then cut down to Linn Park and up to King's Park to visit the sundial. From here we rode north east through Rutherglen to cross the Clyde on the Dalmarnock Road bridge. Next up was Tollcross Park and another glasshouse conservatory. Tollcross has many formal gardens and gazebos, and lots of paths for bikes and pedestrians.

Another port of call on this route was tiny Molendinar Park (at least we think it is called Molendinar) on Craighead Ave in the Royston neighbourhood. This park is only one of two places where you can see the Molendinar Burn. This is the original "Dear Green Place" -- the creek on which Glasgow was founded centuries ago. Indeed, it runs directly to the east of the Cathedral, although today it is covered over for almost its entire length. It can also be seen for a few metres down in the Cathedral precinct, close to the corner of Duke and John Knox St.

Mary in Robroyston Park
Mary in Robroyston Park
Robroyston Park, a mostly undeveloped green space, was next on the tour. Here we gained wonderful views out over the Campsie Fells, once again seeing Dumgoyne hill. Springburn Park, with its ruined Winter Garden conservatory and swooping paths was our most northerly park. We also visited Sighthill Cemetery for stunning views over the city.

From here it was home via George's Square in the downtown and Hengler's Circus pub on Sauchiehall St. We barely made it through the downtown, dodging film crews and road blocks because the new Brad Pitt movie -- something to do with zombies -- was shooting in George's Square. And, of course, any place for a pint is always good for an hour's diversion. We sailed home in the early evening, traversing Kelvingrove, the last park on our route. This park, with broad terraced paths, flower gardens, play areas, and the famous Kelvingrove Museum, was our "home" park. We knew every path by heart, so it was an easy and comfortable ride back to the flat.

All in all, cycling the parks of Glasgow is a very enjoyable way to roll through a summer's day -- not only did the ride have a theme, but we got an up-close view of this diverse and fascinating city.

*As of Sept 7 Mike and I are back home in Victoria, but I still have a few more stories to tell about our time in Scotland, so there will be a few more posts on the blog.

The map of our Glasgow Parks route:



View A bike ride through Glasgow's Parks: Aug 20, 2011 in a larger map


More pictures of our Glasgow Parks ride.