A Wee Sail in the Western Isles: Skye, Canna, and Mull



At anchor in Loch Scavaig - the Darwin Sound is 2nd from the right

 On the morning of Wed, July 13 the wind was perfect for visiting the Isle of Skye. We lifted anchor, left Eigg behind us and sailed to a spectacular mountain-backed anchorage in Loch Scavaig on Skye’s south west coast. Simon and Karen, along with their dog Pippa, sailed with us on the Lola.

I can tell you that eating well at Scavaig was no problem. Simon dropped a line and caught a brace of mackerel that we grilled up for dinner. Karen made a rhubarb crumble for dessert, and we were well provisioned with wine and spirits. Of course, we deserved it after a bracing sail and a fine afternoon’s exploration on shore. Alan, Mike, and I climbed up one of the shoulders of Sgurr nan Eag in the Black Cullin mountains for a view down on the anchorage. Irene, Simon, Karen, and Pippa explored around Loch Coruisk.

Thursday morning we said goodbye to Karen, Simon, and Pippa – they were headed to Mallaig on the mainland and we were off to the Isle of Canna. Another of the Small Isles of the Inner Hebrides, Canna is owned completely by the National Trust for Scotland. It has one of the best anchorages in the Small Isles (that is not really saying a lot though – as we were to find out), and is home to Sea Eagles, Golden Eagles, Puffins, Kittiwakes, Murres, and Great Skua, to name a few. The hiking, history, and archaeology also make this a fine place to spend time.



The harbour at Canna

 Our first day on Canna involved a brief trip ashore where we visited the Campbell mansion (Canna was the property of John and Margaret Campbell, and in 1981 they gave the island to the National Trust for Scotland), an ancient Celtic cross from the 8th or 9th century, and an even more ancient standing stone. On our way back to the boat we were invited to a wedding. That night, as dinner was finishing, we heard the skirl of bagpipes across the water. One of the other yachts had a piper on board and he treated the moorage to several selections. We all took a wee dram up to the bow, saluted the day and enjoyed the pipes as the sun sank below the horizon.

Irene take a break while hiking on Canna



Friday was a bit overcast and windy, but we resolved to stay and give Canna a more complete exploration. We went ashore and visited the remains of an ancient stronghold (small castle), sea cliffs, and high trails. The highlight of the hike was watching a magnificent Sea Eagle swing by us on a thermal updraft. His wingspan looked to be over seven feet. These birds are rare in Scotland with only 33 breeding pairs in the entire country. To see one right in front of my nose was incredible – I went tearing down the cliff top trying to keep it in sight for as long as possible.





Mary hiking on Canna -- wind in my hair,
chasing Sea Eagles!



In the late afternoon we met a birder who put us on to a huge colony of Puffins, Murres (called Guillemots here) and Kittiwakes. Alan, Mike and I headed off into increasingly stiff winds to get a look at the birds. Irene decided to return to the boat. She arranged to pick us up with the dingy in a few hours. Our bird watching was a huge success – Puffins and Razorbills galore – to say nothing of Murres, Kittiwakes, and Fulmars. But, the best experience of all was getting attacked by a Great Skua when we inadvertently got too near its nest. The Skua, or Bonxie is a big bird – bigger than a Raven – and it can be very aggressive, making straight at your head with claws outstretched. Mike was leading and was the first “victim”. Needless to say he was quite startled and had to hit the dirt several times before the Bonxie realized there were a couple more of these strange two legged creatures to be seen off.

By now at least an hour and a half has passed since we left Irene. The rain was making itself felt and the wind was blowing very strongly. We made tracks to the agreed upon pickup place, but no Irene. The Darwin Sound was sitting right where we left her that morning, and through the binos we could see the dingy pulled up at the ferry slip – again, right where we left it. We decided that Irene had made friends with someone on her way back to the boat and had stopped to chat. So, we set off around the harbour, a walk of some two kilometres.



Al is attacked by a Great Skua



We met a woman along the way and Alan asked her if there was a “Department of lost wives” on the island, seeing as he had lost his. She said “Och, the Canadian girl. She’s had a wee bit of trouble. Her boat drifted aground”. That set us dashing for the water to check out the Darwin Sound – but there she was, riding at anchor, all safe and sound. I thought the Canna woman was a bit daft.

Turns out she wasn’t daft at all. About 20 minutes after Irene left us she was making her way back to the dingy. In front of Irene’s eyes, the Darwin Sound starts to glide across the harbour heading for the beach. The wind must have pushed the boat strongly enough to have the anchor come up off the bottom, allowing the boat to drift. Another sailor, Steven from the Lady G, also noticed the trouble, put his dingy in the water and headed over to help. He picked up Irene, who by this time was wading out to the boat, and dropped her on board. Irene immediately started the engine, attended to the anchor, and eased the boat back and forth, getting it off the beach and back into position.

The whole process did not take much more than half an hour, but if Irene had not happened by and if Steven had not been on board his boat and ready to help, the Darwin Sound would have been heeled over kissing the Canna sand. The boat did not seem to take any harm, but the same could not be said for Irene. She inadvertently crushed her finger under the companionway door – lots of blood spurting and a very nasty open gash on the finger.

Darwin Sound - safely moored in the
Canna harbour

Of course, by the time we got to the boat all the drama and excitement was over. Irene quite capably handled the entire emergency by herself -- including dressing her own wound, getting hot water bottles ready for the three of us, and preparing a restorative hot chocolate laced with triple sec for everyone to sip.

That evening we made a huge pasta dinner and invited Steven over to thank him for helping out. We had a fine time chatting about some of the darker moments in Scottish history (there are LOTS), sailing, and storms. All this with the wind wailing through the rigging and the boat rolling back and forth – it makes me a bit dizzy just writing about it.

Sailing into Loch Sunart

Alan and Irene kept anchor watch that night while Mike and I crawled into our bunks and eventually drifted off to sleep. Overnight the wind calmed somewhat and the next day, after saying goodbye to Steven and the Lady G, we headed south around Ardnamurchan Point to Tobermory on the Isle of Mull. It was a long sail and the wind was not as kind as previously, so the motor was on until Tobermory. But, after provisioning in town, and setting out across the Sound of Mull into Loch Sunart, we were able to turn off the motor and let the wind and sails do the work. It is such a treat to hear the engines go silent and feel the pull of the wind against sheet and line.

The anchorage at Loch Sunart was spacious and calm. Even though the wind came up you could have played snooker on deck. In the morning Mike and I would head back to Tobermory on Mull and catch a bus and ferry home to Glasgow. That evening, as we sat back enjoying the play of sunset light over the water, we raised a wee dram of Lagavulin whisky and toasted Al and Irene for a wonderful week sailing in the Western Isles.

Map of our sailing adventures:

View Sailing in the Western Isles in a larger map

More pictures from Arisaig and Isle of Eigg.
More pictures from Skye, Loch Scavaig, and Canna.
More pictures from Mull and Loch Sunart.



Sunset on Loch Sunart